Friday, January 9, 2026

In the heart of Mungaravalli - The Havyaka hospitality

 Before talking about this Malnad trip, I should give you an idea of its origins. S.O.C – The Strategic Observation Center – Our area buddies’ own christened hangout spot! SOC isn’t anything grand, just a corner we claimed as our own, a compound we sat on; but it is the beating heart of our little world. SOC is where time seems to slow down. Even to this day, we gather mostly after dinner or on lazy evenings, taking a stroll around the area, come back to SOC and talk about everything under the sun. The laughter, the debates, the teasing… it all blended into a rhythm that only we understand. Decade old codenames like Exhibit A, huLi (Tiger), Dr. Vitthal Rao, Stacy’s mom, 3rd PUC boys are encrypted even to this day. Our visit to Abhi’s century old ancestral home in Mungaravalli, Sagara was a plan conceived right there at SOC somewhere during pre-covid era. But thanks to the busy lives and schedules of all of us; And of course, Anil's moving to Nashik; Abhi's own startup, Alu's ABC diet and Swaroop & Chaitra's babysitting priorities; The trip was executed probably a decade after!

The expectation was simple enough — just a few quiet days in that century-old home, savoring authentic Malnad cuisine, soaking in the rustic charm and be back to our chores. We thought it would be a short retreat, nothing more. But what awaited us was far beyond what we had imagined. The warmth of the hosts, the little gestures of care turned those days into something unforgettable. Every meal felt like it was cooked with love, every conversation carried the ease of belonging, and every corner of that house seemed to whisper stories of the past. What was meant to be a brief getaway became a memory etched deep. The Havyaka hospitality truly bowled us over.

About the place

Mungaravalli is tucked in the lush green folds of the Western Ghats, a 6 km drive from the town of Sagara. The Malnad region of Karnataka is a land that smells of rain-soaked earth, freshly ground spices, and tender areca leaves swaying in the monsoon breeze. But beyond its scenic charm, what truly defines Malnad is its people — and among them, the Havyakas stand out for their deep-rooted culture and unmatched warmth.

Who Are the Havyakas?

They are a Brahmin community with origins tracing back several centuries, known for their traditional values, distinctive dialect of Kannada (Havyaka Kannada), and reverence for knowledge and simplicity. Primarily spread across Uttara Kannada, Shivamogga, and parts of Dakshina Kannada, they have long been stewards of the region’s cultural and ecological heritage. But more than their scholarship or cuisine, it’s their hospitality — gentle, genuine, and unpretentious — that leaves the most lasting impression.

A Home in Harmony with Nature

Abhi's century old ancestral home at Mungaravalli

The house was a world unto itself — A century old home with a red-oxide flooring, open verandahs, wooden beams polished by decades of care, and a courtyard with pillars that make way for a makeshift attic to dry the arecanuts in summers and a kitchen garden fragrant with basil and curry leaves. Right opposite the house, it stretched endless green: areca nut trees swaying gently, turmeric leaves unfurling, black peppers on the cusp of harvest. Everywhere I looked, nature wasn’t a backdrop — it was part of daily life. The Havyakas of Mungaravalli have a way of living that flows effortlessly with the seasons. It reflected a harmony with the natural rhythms of Malnad. I, Anil and Swaroop were more than just guests and found ourselves not just staying in a home, but in a living ecosystem that breathed generosity.

A Connection to Nature

Much of this hospitality springs from the Havyakas’ close relationship with nature. Their home was surrounded by areca plantations, paddy fields, and kitchen gardens — are sanctuaries of self-sufficiency. I was told, everything served to a guest often comes from their own soil: home-grown vegetables, freshly pressed coconut oil, and the day’s harvest from the backyard. The way aunty made way for our Sandhyavandane; showed the madi neeru (Holy water) and basil leaves and asked Anil to pluck it for his Pooja; the way Abhi’s uncle plucked cucumbers and green chillies from the backyard and prepared a salad – For someone like me who has only heard of 2 minute noodles, the 2-minute salad was the epitome of homesteading! I still can’t get over the ease of living that they are used to!

The backyard with sustainable mobilty

Hospitality in Everyday Life

In reality, we are nothing more than just Abhi’s friends who wanted to experience MaLenadu. But every home Abhi took us to, his relatives, his dad’s friends and neighbors, they all treated us with so much of love because we are “Mungaravalli Haribhat’s Son Nagaraj’s neighbours! Next time, even without Abhi, we can visit with the tag “Mungaravalli Haribhat’s Son Nagaraj’s neighbours" and they'd still treat us with the same vigor. We had uncle’s Zen Estilo with us for entire two days, so we could drive to Jog, Ikkeri, NiNaSam and other places. Abhi’s aunt took so much of effort to prepare steaming idli, freshly ground coconut chutney and a cup of aromatic filter coffee because we are from Bangalore. Refusing it is almost impossible — not because of politeness, but because every offering by her carried the warmth of the giver.

Festival

All set for Tulasi pooje
The day was TuLasi habba. I am told that the Havyaka hospitality shines brightest during festivals. Food took center stage — with an elaborate spread of dishes like Majjige Huli, Tambuli, Huli Avalakki, and the iconic Saasive, each carrying centuries of tradition were served. I and Swaroop decided to run an extra 5K when back in Bengaluru and declared it a cheat day **winks**. We were invited by their neighbours to the evening tuLasi habba! And they gave dakshine, because for them, it was Brahmans visiting them on festive day! I can’t recall when was the last time I did that to any of my brahman friends visiting home. **frowns**. There was also a short conversation on Queen Chennabhairadevi's bravery since she was from that region with neighbour akka, which I haven't done with anyone for long! In the midst of all these, Abhi's uncle understood our perpetual love for Midi mango pickles and arranged a bottle of those for all of us! How can I ever forget this! I Can go on and list a few hundred more things that made us happy there, in just two days!

This visit made me think; What is that they do so differently, that they won hearts in less than two days! What makes the essence of the entire Mungaravalli’s warmth so different from us? What makes their hospitality so memorable? For sure, one thing is convincing! Unlike the urban dwellers like us, what they offer the guests is not extravagance but sincerity. In a world that often rushes past, they embody the rare art of pausing for people – They genuinely invest their time to converse and connect with everyone. I say this because of the 10 odd homes we visited in 2days, we were the same strangers for them, yet we experienced the same warmth! 

Whether you are a guest in their home or just an acquaintance, you’ll carry back more than just memories of scenic beauty; After two long months of this visit, that feeling follows me — We arrived as guests — And left as family.