Sunday, February 22, 2015

Tourist in my own city-3: Lal Bagh

The wreckage that has happened to namma Bengaluru’s green cover is a misadventure. The media swapping the city’s tag to “Garbage city” is heartbreaking. Today, it is hard for my friends to believe when I say that just a decade ago summer in Bangalore used to be a warm 30 degree Celsius. It was not out of blues that Bangalore once was called as “garden City”; there were a thousand reasons for it. But the primary reason could be absolutely nothing other than this two century old abode of flora called Lal bagh.

It was after a decade that I walked inside Lalbagh with a camera in hand, clicked pictures and came back home. But I had no idea of its exuberance, its history, its chronicles and great human beings who made Lalbagh happen, until I started exploring its past. I’m sure most of us, just like I did, think of Lalbagh as just a century old huge green park. Here’s my attempt to get to the roots and provide substantiation, which I feel, every true Bangalorean definitely deserve to know.

Origin
Lalbagh is of royal origin. Hyder Ali, having the Moghul taste for gardens, is acknowledged to be the founder of Lalbagh. But very few know that Hyder Ali planned Lalbagh at Bangalore principally on the model of “Khan Bagh”, an impressive garden in Sira (near Tumkur), developed by Dilawar Khan, the Moghul emperor’s south representative. Dr. Francis Buchanan, in his book *1 has written that the taste of Hyder Ali accorded more with English. His evening walks alongside the Cypress trees were wider and he enjoyed it. It is also said that before it was named as Lalbagh, it was called as the “Cypress Garden” *2
*2 View of LalBagh, painted by Robert Home


Development
Somewhere in 1760s, Hyder Ali chose 34 acres of land on the east of the Kempegowda tower. He procured seeds and plants from varied places like Kabul, Persia, Turkey, Lahore and Multan. Tamil speaking gardeners from the community of “Thigalars” were brought from the neighborhood to look after the gardens. This explains why we find the “Thigalar” community people in abundance in Bangalore today.

After Hyder Ali, Tippu Sultan extended the garden by acquiring more land. Tippu imported Pine and oak plants from Cape of Good Hope*3 and other exotic plants and seeds from Mauritius and Africa. Two old mango tress said to have been planted during his time is still seen in Lal Bagh. He also appointed Mohammed Ali and Abdul Khader as Daroga (Chief Gardner). Tippu improved the gardens to a greater extent even as late as in 1798; he obtained plants and seeds from the Isle of France. Thus Lal Bagh grew to be a house of rare tropical and sub-tropical plants.

After British invasion, Lal Bagh became a property of East India Company. On 27th February 1836, Sir. Mark Cubbon transferred its ownership to the Agri horticultural society, Mysore. By August 1856, Lal Bagh became a government botanical garden and in 1881, it was passed into the hands of Maharaja of Mysore. Under the state government, the garden area was more than doubled. 22 acres in 1888, 8 acres in 1890 and again in 1889-90, 30 acres of land were purchased. By the end of the century, Lal Bagh was a whopping 120 acres of mesmerizing Fauna!

Zoo at Lal Bagh
There were also proposals to make Lal Bagh, a combination of Zoo and Garden to increase the number of visitors. In 1862, it had a Black Panther, a couple of bird species, a few tigers and Kangaroos. Few hundreds of deers were also brought into the zoo. It is also said that an Orangutan was quite popular @ the Lal Bagh’s Zoo.  A pigeon house with 100 pair of pigeons was built. The plague of 1899 had a very bad effect on the Menagerie and the aviary. By 1900, the number of animals and birds was reduced to 60 and all these were later transferred to the Mysore Zoo.

The Glass-House
Flower shows were conducted by the Agri-Horticultural society right from the beginning. Flower shows at Lal Bagh dates back to 1867. In 1888, John Cameron, the then superintendent of Government gardens, proposed for the construction of Glass House for the purpose of holding horticultural shows. Designed originally on the lines of Crystal palace in England, it was completed in 1890 at a cost of 75000 Rs. Crystal palace was burnt to ashes in a fire accident, but the “Glass House” has remained a marvelous structure, symbolizing the development of Horticulture and reminding the Englishmen of their lost monumental glory.
Glass House @ Dusk

Lal Bagh rock and Lake
The great plate of south India is called as “Gondwana land”, which is one of the oldest formations on earth. Dating back to about 3000 million years! A rare exposure of this antiquity can be seen at the Lal Bagh, in the form of a rock hill. The geologists term this rock as peninsular gneiss. Perched on top of this rock is one of the four cardinal towers, as border of namma Bengaluru city built by Kempegowda in 1537.
Tower of Bangalore on top of The LalBagh rock


People who made “Garden City”
Today, Bangalore and it’s amazing green cover is what it is because of a numerous gentlemen who nurtured it with love, passion and care. I’ve tried really hard to collect the details of some of the key men who are remembered for their below mentioned deeds, without which this post would’ve been incomplete.
John Cameron – enriched the plant wealth of Lal Bagh by giving it a numerous exotic plant species, many of which later assumed the status of commercial crops. The famous Bangalore Blue Grapes, Gauva, Mulberry are just a few. Glass house is his brain child
G H Krumbiegal – was requested by Krishnaraja Wodeyar, as a successor to John Cameron, to raise the reputation of Lal Bagh, by introducing economic farming, methodic development of horticulture on commercial scale from Lal bagh. It is also noteworthy that Brindavan garden at KRS was established during his time.
H C Javaraya – Rao Bahaddur HC JAvaraya, an able successor to Krumbigal, is credited with the development of Bangalore city as “Garden city”. The full credit of starting a fruit orchard @ Lal Bagh, erecting the eastern wing of the Glass house, Lotus pond, Government Fruit research station at Hessarghatta are some of his achievements
Dr. M H Marigowda – A key man in the horticulture department of Karnataka. A Ph. D in Botany from Harvard, started as many as 380 farms and nurseries in Bangalore. He also set up soil testing and seed testing labs @ Lal Bagh, also introduced exotic species of Flora to Lal Bagh and elevated Karnataka to a “Horticultural” rich state.
Flower show inside the Glass house


For over a century, this elegant garden is standing as a symbol and testimony of floral richness. From 34 acres to a present 240 acres of roaring green cover, every acre has its own story to tell. To me, the fact that it is in the very heart of namma Bengaluru makes it even merrier. I wish that the long cherished legacy of Lal Bagh will continue forever and bring further prosperity and happiness to namma Bengaluru’s feat!

*1 – Book “A Journey from Madras: Through the Countries of Mysore, Canara, and Malabar by Dr. Francis Buchanan
*2 – Painted by Robert Home, British oil portrait painter. Found in British Library website
*3 – The early long history of Lal Bagh – By Dr. Suryanath U Kamath – Former Chief Editor: Karnataka Gazetteer

Above all, special thanks to some of colleagues of Horticultural department, for understanding my inevitabilities and catering to thousands of my inquiries wholeheartedly.


Photo credits: Thamizh Ezhil Murali, Wiki and of course myself J

Saturday, December 6, 2014

Pro tips for friends who are getting married

I woke up to a whopping 65 anniversary wishes on WhatsApp. A friend who got married just before me celebrated first anniversary which reminded me that it has been almost a year since I lost my bachelorhood. I’m tensed. The “what to gift wife for the first anniversary” trepidation is slowly pitching in (Please text me if you have ideas that has worked). So I’m taking a transient detour from the Tourist In my own city series and writing this.

Frankly, I was very much apprehensive before marriage. Even the thought of post marriage left me with a wicked onset of social anxiety and a weird, unexplainable exasperation. People in my close circle always said that I’m a responsible man and you’ll be alright. But I couldn’t agree a bit. Today, I’m indeed a very happy man. But the transition from being a happy go lucky, careless bloke to a man of responsibilities has not been a smooth ride! I somehow, have successfully reached a position where I can proudly say that “I’m the boss in this house (And I have my wife’s permission to say so)” ;)

With many of my closest friends getting ready for marriage and I being the senior with almost a year of “marriage” experience, have realized that there’s a funny edge to it too. And I firmly believe that there is no delight in owning anything unshared. So here are some of the pro tips to all my buddy maklus who are getting married.

Never, ever say “I have good news”
I once got a chance to represent my company in one of the conferences abroad. Just like any other husband/son; I naturally said “I have good news”. I wasn’t aware of the fact that definition of “good news” after marriage is the “you know what it is” good news in Indian context. When my mom and granny came to know what the actual (good?) news is, they felt so disheartened (is that all… types), that nobody spoke to me for next couple of days.
Make a point in your mind; after marriage, even if you win a lottery worth million dollars or become the CEO of a company, IT IS NOT GOOD NEWS.

Say “YES” to dowry
This is one of the biggest mistakes I did. I was a gentleman (or I thought so) and didn’t even bring the topic of dowry up. Result was devastating. The amount of time and effort spent by me to get my wife some of the basic necessities to lead a happy life; I can write a book on it titled “My Life.. My wife & My Struggles”. Just because I did not stand up for my rights, I had to take a lot of pain.
So friends, never ever say NO to dowry. Don’t struggle after marriage. After all, dowry is for her own good. Don’t have a second thought in your mind and ASK for these basic necessities as dowry.
  •     Passport with at least 8 years of validity.
  •       Address proof (YOUR HOME only)
  •        Marriage certificate
  •       Her Bank account transferred to your nearest branch (This takes priority if she’s from another city)


Say it.. If you love your car
For all of us who didn’t have girl-friends before marriage, we all can’t enamour enough of our own car. Well, that’s before marriage story. After marriage, your wife, with the purest intentions of learning how to drive, will whip it like a bullock-cart, whack it and drives it through the mire. According to her, it is perfectly normal because she is learning how to drive. But that’s different. You’ll feel like driving to a lonely place, hug your car and shed tears to the max. But you can’t do this because you’ll have to accompany her too.
Take a chance. Say that you love your car and make her understand that cars at driving school are exclusively made to take all the hits and bumps from women*.

*Consequences at your own risk

Color skepticism
We could recognize a maximum of 7 colors. But after marriage, you’ll see so many shades of the same color that it is pretty normal that you’ll get skeptical and tackle this question to death. “Do those many shades of the same color (especially the shades of PINK) exist in reality?”
You may argue with Hue, Tint, shade, saturation and other physics and chromatic terminologies, but the actual weightage will be given to 99 colors of TVS Scooty and nail enamels. Prepare to lose arguments on ethical grounds, even though you are technically correct.

The matching paradigm
You remember those good old days in college how we celebrated if two of us wore the same “Man U” tees? It seems we were wrong. That is a taboo. According to girls, if two people are wearing the same attire, then it is as humiliating as your country’s Human Development Index is coming drastically down. Not only that; If her hair band is green, then having her vanity bag, shoe buckle, nail color, watch strap and the mobile flip cover also in green is considered high self-esteem.
For your own good, to avoid clash and confusion, accept the matching rationale.

Find an answer
And lastly, Being in IT, this is probably the most difficult question you will HAVE to answer after Fourier Transformations in college days: “Did you marry me or this computer”? Please let me know if the answer you said was considered satisfactory by your better half.

If you learn to handle these “fundamentally” important things, the smaller things like the need for 20 pair of sandals, the need for chivalry, her mood swings and why she is always right will take care of itself. As a great man once said “…And they lived happily ever after is not a fairytale. It is a choice”.

Welcome to the club and I wish you guys a very happy married life. 

Monday, October 27, 2014

Tourist in my own city-2 : Russel Market

This part of the city is relaxed in a way that shows that it just doesn’t care whatever is happening on the other side of Bangalore. In other words, it has remained nonchalant all these days. This is the primary reason why I often deviate from my usual road and take a ride around cantonment area and Shivajinagar while going to office. It reminds me of old Bangalore.
Front entrance of Russel Market
Bangalore in 1920s had only two major divisions. One was called the pete area (which I’ve already written about) which had a majority of kannadigas and the other was Cantonment which had a western influence; thanks to the residents from Britain and other parts of the world. While pete area was administered by Maharaja of Mysore, the influence of British was more in the region of cantonment.  Thus the old cantonment area saw a rapid development. This also saw a need for a bigger market area for people to buy their daily essential commodities. Then, South parade (now called as MG Road) was meant only for expensive shopping. That is when the then municipal chief of the cantonment area T B Russel (later it was named after him) came up with the plan to construct a market.

Fresh dates sold - Ramzan special
Construction of Russel Market began in 1927 and was inaugurated in 1933. The specialty of this market is that it was constructed with keeping in mind the religious tolerances of people; for it had separate entries for vegetables and fruits, meat products and groceries. Even for today, one can experience this by entering the market from different sides. While the front entrance greets you with the smell of fruits and vegetables, the meat and poultry entries on the other are hard to breathe at.
The deserted arena of Russel Market building's first floor
I gaze around the whole market and the freshness of fruits and vegetables amaze me. A wide variety of fruits and vegetables, Arabian dates and dry fruits, flowers are stalled. I couldn’t resist buying tapiocas after realizing how fresh they are. Being a vegetarian, I was forced away from the meat and poultry sections for obvious reasons, but I’m told by friends that Russel Market is one of the few places where one can find even the meat afresh. Chicken, duck meat, beef, pork, crabs and prawns are among the other varieties one can find in there. It is a one stop shop for all the meat buyers. The iftaari delicacies during Ramzan here are so awesome that your palate just doesn’t want to get rid of them!
Vegetables - As fresh as it gets
I start conversing with a few old merchants who still have shops in there and they opine that it was a lot better during olden days. They say that they miss the beautiful view of St. Mary’s Basilica and wide open space from its front entry. A few also talk about its calmness until late 70s and 80s and express blues of how choking and grimy the place has become. They also miss some old parts of the market building (tea house) which caught fire in 2012 due to a short circuit. But for most of them, no matter what course of changes they’ve witnessed, it’s about moving on because they do whatever they do in Russel Market, for living.
Fruitseller chacha - He does it for a living
I wish I could get deeper insights of this place, but unfortunately, there is not much recorded “authentic” information. I would recommend you to just pay a visit to Russel Market and its surroundings just to get that feel of old Bangalore. I’m sure it enlightens the many facets of old world charm in you. If you are the one who give more importance to the coffee than the cup, then you’ll unwarily enjoy shopping there.
The "always bustling" shivajinagar street
As I take one last sip of the flavorsome Sulaimani chai in front of Russel Market, as I take one last pic of its old tower, a thought hits me hard – I wish the phrase “Bangalore has changed” is just euphemistic. 

Sunday, July 27, 2014

Tourist in my own city-1 : K R Market

“To learn photography, you need a landscape that is diversified with a compendium of the times gone by and the touch of sparkling freshness” said Anil and Abhi. The first thing and the only thing that came to my mind was– Namma Bengaluru.  My fascination for writing and my love for my city are now complemented with a DSLR in hand. As I try to get hold of the options in my camera, I’ll also present to you the places around Bangalore which has a story to be told. For now, I’m a tourist in my own city!

It is 6 in the morning. While every other city road is still getting up to its realms, K R market is already bustling with vehicles. There is a traffic jam here! I’m sure many of you are now wondering how I managed to walk the aisle even for a minute. “Ewwwww! Photo in K R Market?” said my wife. “Are you nuts?” said my mother. Yes, true. How unfortunate it is that we live in the despondent present. But my dear friend, everything has a past. Even K R Market!

K R Market, circa 1950s

Legends say that before it was named after Krishna Rajendra Wodeyar IV (also known as Nalvadi KrishnaRaja Wodeyar) as K R Market, the area was called Pete (means Emporium; a mart; a place of sale; as per Kittel’s Kannada-English dictionary).  The pete area is said to have been established around late 1530s by Kempegowda-1 after foreseeing the need for a common place for traders to sell their commodities, mainly flowers and vegetables. *1 And the commodities were bought from as far as the towns of Salem and Erode. As time progressed, the large pete area got drifted into smaller chunks called Bale-pete (Bangle market), Chikka pete (for textiles), Cubbon pete, Ganigara pete (for oil), akki-pete (for grains) and so many others.

Bangalore fort 1860s

The rush is so much that with much difficulty, I gain entry into the market. All the vendors are sipping their morning cup of tea amidst the diligent business. For a software engineer like me, it is surprising that in this bigbasket.com era, there are so many people buying things at the wee hours of a weekend. But Swamy, one of the fruit vendors tells me that they make very good business during this time. I cannot stop thinking if bigbasket guys buy stuff from here. Another green vegetable wholesaler Tayamma says that she sells all her commodities within 830 and gets back home. Looking at the number of buyers thronging in and the trade activities spilling over onto the streets of the K R Market, I’m pretty convinced about the freshness of the fruits and vegetables.

A vendor busy selling flowers inside Flower Market

There is also a flower market which sparkles with the insignia of colors. 67 year old flower vendor, Rajanna; who comes here to sell his home grown flowers all the way from Sira, a village which is 120km from Bangalore, tells me that he comes to K R Market thrice a week. In a day, he sells around a quintal of flowers and during festivals it goes up to 20-30 quintals a day, which include a wide variety of Mallige(Jasmine), Suryakanti (Sunflower), Roja (Rose), Sugandharaja (Tuberose) and Sevantige (Chrysanths). Another vendor Shaama takes pride when he says “There’ll be at least one type of flower purchased from us in every marriage that happens in Bangalore.

Rajanna, another flower vendor

Not just the market, the surrounding area has a lot of monuments that talk about the glorified existence of namma Bengaluru. Just a couple of 100 yards from the Market building, is the Kote (Fort), which was built by Kempegowda during mid-1500s and later modernized by Hyder Ali around 1760s. It is also said that this pete area was a war-zone during the third Anglo-Mysore war (1791 AD) when lord Cornwallis attacked it during midnight. As a proof, recently, Workers dug up a cannon weighing more than a ton belonging to Tippu Sultan era during Metro rail work in the K R Market area *4.  

Tippu's Palace - Front view

Kote Venkataramana Swamy temple which was built in 1689 AD *5, is one of the oldest lord venkateshwara temple of Karnataka.  During the same time, Tippu Sultan also built a palace, which is called Tippu Palace, is still erect. There is a mosque adjacent to the market building called Jamia Masjid which was built circa 1940s majorly with white marble. Post 1950, the commercial activity of K. R Market’s surroundings thrived; thanks to its proximity with the residential areas of old Bangalore, viz. Chamarajapete and Basavanagudi.  There were also a lot of theaters around this area, some of which are functioning even to this day and some are closed down.

Jamia Masjid, adjacent to Market building

The new market which was designed by Sri Lakshminarasappa on the model of Sir Stuart Hogg Market of Calcutta was opened on October 11, 1921. *2.  It has been close to a dozen of decades since this building is functioning. But it is visible that very less has been done to keep it in good shape. It is in ruins with water seeping from the top during rains.  The walls are shattered, platforms are uneven. They deserve better facilities and as always, the government has turned its blind eye after an armada of promises during the elections.

HMT tower clock, K R Market building entrance, from inside

I, Anil and Rahul meander enough around K R Market and come out to have a kadak chai. As we deliberate about its sustenance; the employment that it has offered to so many people; about its past, present and future, my image of it has changed.

For sure, K R Market does not have the loftiness of the best malls or the awe of most the eminent supermarkets in the city, but with this visit, I’ve realized that it is full of coveted things for the common man without which everyday life ceases to move on. Next time I pass it, I hope to forget the mires around and I’ll feel proud of the place which still has the ashes of the times gone by. At this moment, a quote is kindling in my mind that Plato once said about Greece!

This City is what it is because our citizens are what they are!

References:
*1 – Bangalore - The informal economy of the Historic Pete, Journal of the arts and heritage, UNESCO
*2 – History of Bangalore. K.R Market (Karnataka History)
*3 – Image – K R Market, circa 1950s. British Library
*5 - The New Cambridge History of India, volume VI
Photo credits: Anil and Rahul, and of course me!

Thursday, February 6, 2014

A certain south Indian wedding preparation

In India, being South Indian is not as easy as “Being Human”. I don’t even have to talk about opulence associated with Indian marriages. There may be more than 100 major ishtyles and dialects of Indian wedding. Some are very prolific and some are very straight and simple. Things have changed; the place; the food, the way we invite family and friends (thanks to technology) and so on! Or does it just look so? I’m still confused. I guess there are no set answers for this. But what has not changed for sure is the epitome of “arranged” marriage in South India.

Prologue: After my 10 uncles and 27 aunts (your mausi ki saas ke devar ki biwi is also a potential match maker in south India) pressurized me in every goddamn meet to send a “good looking” (good looking south Indians do exist in real and we are in plenty) picture of mine to them, I had to succumb! Next, I had to change my mindset from M for MBA to M for Marriage. The transition from CAT (Common Admission Test) to scapegoat is really hard to digest. Thanks to mom and dad’s “why it’s not a bad idea to marry @ 27” brainwashing sessions. And then, there’s peer pressure too. “Your best friend Sandeep ki shaadi ho gayi. Smita ki bhi. And my colleague’s son Ajay is married with a kid. He’s still 25”.

Somehow my profile got uploaded in our community matrimony. Hold on! I too was assuming that it’s going to be some online matrimony site. My mom was like ‘do you think we are so deviated from the Brahmin ethos. You may be a software engineer; but I won’t allow any software to choose a bahu for my home’.

I won’t get into the details of the visiting the matrimony office and taking notes of the prospective bahus and my interview with them and their family. It’s too hilarious to be discussed here. Fortunately, not after too many interviews, I met this pretty gal, liked her, said YES, got engaged to her and I thought everything is over! Alas! I was wrong. The real challenges of a South Indian wedding surface only with the onset of marriage preparation.

The selected ones are folded and stacked!
Saree: Trust me, you’ve no idea what kind of opulence is associated with it. Unlike Christian and north Indian weddings, where the haute couture is diversified from Salwars to Ghagras and from Gowns to skirts, in a south Indian wedding, it’s just Saree.. Silk Saree. The bride, her mom, your mom, all your aunts, all her aunts, your granny, her granny, their daughters, sisters and even kaamwali bais (not kidding) will shoot your mouth off with the money spent on the sarees. Their exuberance will puzzle you to an extent where you’ll start believing that dress code in Ekta Kapoor’s serials is actually real. If at all there is one Indian brand can counter the Versaces and Armanis, it is ungal Kancheepuram Silk saree.

Silk sarees piled up in a heap!
Considering that the sex ratio in south India is a good 997/1000, and with women population of 100 million, even if 50 million arranged marriages happen: 25 million Rs INR is spent on just silk sarees in South India every year! Can you imagine how rich we are? If you’re a south Indian, fall in love with your north Indian colleague or love thy neighbor and elope. In an arranged marriage, silk saree is a hundred thousand rupee affair!

Gyan: Stereotyping reach new heights with you getting married. Everyone will have something to say about you getting married (Or I just feel so). The “senior citizen gyan yojna” of your family will be of no use, although some uncles and aunts may just keep quiet or give realistic insight which you may feel will help. Some will ask you questions which will confuse you whether to laugh or cry.
                By family members:
  •      You’ve become so lean. Tension mat lo beta! (Why are YOU getting tensed about MY weight, aunty)
  •      I feel you’re still a school going kid. Time flies no (Signs of Alzheimer’s, uncle)
  •      It’s on Feb 20th? Should’ve been Feb 14th (Waah uncle.. aap to dude nikle)

By friends:
  • Mujhe pata tha tumhara jaldi fix ho jayega. South Indian hokar bhi tum fair complexion ke ho (No comments)
  • You’re gonna make us eat on banana leaf? (You can eat on the floor also, bro)
  • Marriage is for three days…?? What will you do? (First two days batting and I’ll declare for third day)
  • Arranged Marriage? **wry smile**.. Don’t lie! (Well, I really don’t have Erich Segal Love Story type of incidents in my life)
  • If you invite 500 people, 2500 people will ask you “where are you going for honeymoon”


Listening to all of such nonsense shit and keeping your mouth shut is a real challenge.

A South Indian Bride (from Kerala)
Gold: Everybody says old is gold. But paradoxically, when it comes to actual gold, nobody is satisfied with old gold ornaments. The Bride and Groom’s mother would have stacked gold in every possible occasion for future marriages; we still have to buy new gold. This is crazy! I don’t understand. My mom says it’s a question of pride. My uncle lambasts Raghuram Rajan and Subbarao for not being able to control inflation, but continues to stack gold for daughter’s marriage. This gold affiliation will rid you of all the savings that you’ve done so far. So just don’t think too much. You can’t do anything. I’m only relieved with the fact that unlike some Keralites (no offense), we still talk about gold in terms of grams and not kilograms!! **sigh**

Epilogue:
The big day is just around the corner. Now I’ve clearly understood the essence of long lasting Indian marriages ;). I’m thrilled and tensed both at the same time. Thrilled because of one thousand obvious reasons and tensed because… Boss, I’m a south Indian!

P.S: I just completed writing this piece and someone dedicated the song  “Yeh Galiya yeh chaubara.. yahaa aana na dobaara…” on fm radio

Tuesday, December 3, 2013

Kadlekai Parishe - Mar-di Gras of Bangalore

The city of Bangalore occupies a special place in the pride of India, not just on account of its external beauty and the IT revenue it is generating. We, the true blue Bangaloreans, have always loved the city because of its finer qualities seen through its countless carnivals, fiestas and cultural extravaganzas. And Kadlekai Parishe  is just one among them.

Basava (Nandi)
 Kadlekai Parishe, In English, translates to Groundnut festival or Peanut festival. Bangalore’s bountiful nature and an ideal climate have helped its people grow a broad spectrum of intercontinental plant wealth. Back in 1600s and 1700s, the surroundings of Bangalore cultivated a lot of peanuts. One of the legends says that cows often entered the groundnut growing fields and damaged the plant. And all the apprehensive farmers, pledged to offer their first harvest of peanuts to Nandi idol, also called as Basava.  This is how kadlekai parishe was started. Later the area surrounding this basava idol came to be known as Basavanagudi (translated as Bull temple).

Groundnut sellers from all over 
Thus, kadlekai parishe became an annual event (celebrated on the last Monday of Kartika Maasa, which is considered auspicious according to Hindu almanac) in Bangalore’s calendar. As time passed by, Basavanagudi itself has demonstrated a marvelous capacity for accepting, accommodating and sheltering the vast and varied groundnut sellers from all around the city (and parts of Tamil Nadu too).

Having spent the early days of my childhood in the vicinity of Basavanagudi (We stayed in Gavipuram Guttahalli for sometime before moving to north Bangalore)  I too have fond memories of it. It reminded me of my school days. During kadlekai parishe, after school, a bunch of  friends, Me, Joshi, Bhargav, Murali and many others  used to run to bull temple just to pick groundnuts and walk home; Chips made of tapioca were a new trend those days and I just loved eating it. Those manually driven giant wheel and merry go round rides were so ecstatic!

Heap of peanuts for sale
On this festival, Basavanagudi and the surrounding area is transformed so radically that if you take a real-estate tycoon to Bull temple area and tell him this is a prime location in Bangalore, he would not believe you AT ALL!  This is THE reason why I love kadlekai parishe. For a day, the otherwise bustling Bull temple road is transformed totally to a village, full of colors and vibrancy; A village that provides seclusion to the young generation who’ve not witnessed a carnival before; and to the old, who finds reminiscence of the old Bangalore.

In the necklace of Bangalore’s cultural heritage, kadlekai parishe is just one of the pendants. There are so many other pendants and I hope to write about them in coming days. Somewhere between taking pride in visiting all the malls and boasting about being cosmopolitan, we are deviating away for our own ethos. Take your kids to these events and give them a feel of cultural sophistication. The magnificence of a groundnut festival is something that shopping malls can never offer you. Kadlekai Parishe is Bangalore’s Mar-di Gras

Friday, November 8, 2013

Gandhi v/s Indian youth – Why we hate the Mahatma

You might have come across so many in your friend’s circle (May be you are one among those) who always talk ill on Mahatma Gandhi and express their displeasure that he is solemnly responsible for all the ignominy that is happening in India. So much so that today’s youth don’t even think twice before sharing some stupid fabricated posts on facebook that Gandhi was a rapist and other such nonsense. This is not an attempt to correct your views. I’m not taking that big risk. This is my prompt or rather equivocal attempt to at least make you realize that you’re wrong at the very fundamental level of your irrational thinking.

Gandhi and partition:

Jinnah and Mountbatten
The major reason why today’s youth have developed a voluntary hatred for the mahatma is because of the partition. If you think, partition happened only because of Gandhi, you’re off beam. Gandhi never endorsed partition. Please be informed that he died because of Hindu Muslim disharmony. Muhammad Ali Jinnah was the real partition endorser and Lord(?) Mountbatten backed it. Power greed Jinnah along with the Muslim League induced the fear of Hindu domination in Muslims’ mind and came up with a two nation theory. Lord Mountbatten backed it and Indian political leaders accepted the plan.

Gandhi in fact was against it. Very much against it! He was not solely responsible for partition.

Gandhi could have saved Bhagat Singh:

Tribune headlines after Bhagat Singh was executed
Yet another myth why our youth hate Gandhi is inspired by the bollywood biopic's take that Gandhi did not make an attempt to save Bhagat Singh, Sukh Dev and Raj guru. But think it over. Which biopic in bollywood has completely justified the actuality without mutating the truth? They've featured Bhagat Singh in a duet, Milkha Singh romance Australian coach’s daughter.

The movie which show that Gandhi-Irwin pact was blindly signed by Gandhi is total bullshit. It is true that there were differences in Bhagat and Gandhi’s principles. But Gandhi said you can fight oppression without the gun, you can mobilize people without violence. He insisted rebels like Subhash Chandra Bose and Bhagat Singh to take peace path and not piece path.

Gandhi and Subhash Chandra Bose in 1938 congress meeting
Gandhi did whatever he possibly could to save the trio. Lord Irwin, who carried the final authority regarding Christian sentiments of British officials for the Murder of Saunders.
the executions, promised that he would consider Gandhi’s submission. Irwin at one time almost submitted to Gandhi's negotiation. But all the British officers of Punjab threatened to resign and Irwin had to succumb to the prospect of a judicial error and the appeal of the

Unfortunately, Raj Kumar Santoshi forgot to include this part in his screenplay

Gandhi favored Nehru and not Patel

Gandhi and Sardar Patel
It’s not that Gandhi was not aware of this dishonesty done to Sardar Patel by favoring Nehru. But Gandhi for obvious reasons never anticipated that supporting Nehru would prove this costly for India.  He had fully realized that what he was trying to bring about was wrong and totally unfair. In fact, he tried to make Nehru understand that Congress was in favor of Patel.. He conveyed to Nehru that no Congress member has nominated his name excluding a few members. But Nehru was impertinent and made it clear that he will not play subordinate to anybody.

A thwarted Gandhi succumbed to Nehru's pig-
Gandhi, Nehru and Sardar Patel together
headedness and asked Sardar Patel to take back seat. Sardar Patel had great respect for Gandhi and he took out his submission without saying a word. Perhaps, Gandhi wanted both Nehru and Patel to provide leadership to the country. He used his veto power in favor of Nehru because he feared Nehru could cause problems in the way of India’s independence if he was not given the chance to become Prime Minister. Gandhi feared that this would even delay India’s independence and that would cost dear to the nation.

Gandhi on social networking

As I said earlier, almost everyone who post ill on Gandhi on social networks don’t even know Gandhi’s full name. People and groups who share posts that Gandhi was gay, Gandhi had sex with his women ashram inmates and other such rubbish don’t even know a bit about India’s freedom struggle. They don’t keep an independent view of political, spiritual and cultural aspects of life. Most of us ignore such posts, but stupidity is also infectious. You can’t stop more youth from believing that whatever is on the internet is true.

I’m not at loggerheads that what Gandhi did was right or wrong. But we all know that it was in the best interest of the nation. We all know that he was never against the betterment of India and Indians. Don’t we? Most of us Indians will never respect him, that’s fine. But what is really depressing is that we are carelessly spreading rumors about a great man of our own nation who is respected for his deeds, for his preaching and his leadership skills (300 million people listening to one voice is something that we can’t even imagine in today’s world) everywhere in the world.


If not for his deeds, at least we should respect him for his strength of mind, for his integrity, and above all for his purest love for a force called “India”